Sleep
Climbing Rest Day Protocol
A climbing rest day protocol protects fingers with no max hangs—easy movement optional—plus sleep and protein so tendons recover between hard boulders.
A climbing rest day protocol schedules true finger rest—no hangboard max tests or limit crimp projects—while allowing easy walking, mobility, or light antagonist push work. Full rest days follow limit blocks or pulley twinges; active rest uses open-hand traversing well below flash grade with zero pain on grabs.
Sleep eight plus hours and hit protein targets so tendons remodel instead of re-tearing.
Common questions
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Is light climbing a rest day?
Open-hand traversing two to three grades below limit can be active recovery; limit attempts or hang tests are not rest. Honest logging prevents grey-zone overload.
Related terms
Put Climbing Rest Day Protocol into practice
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