Fitness
Half-Crimp Grip Technique
Half-crimp grip balances force and tendon safety on small edges—preferred crimp style for limit bouldering and controlled hangboard work.
Half-crimp grip technique sets the proximal interphalangeal joint near ninety degrees with the distal joint flexed—standard on small edges where open hand slips off. It produces strong finger force with moderate pulley stress compared with full crimp hyperextension.
Limit high-intensity half-crimp hangs to two or three days weekly with progressive load jumps under ten percent when adding weight or shrinking edges. Pair with open-hand volume on other days.
Common questions
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Is half crimp safer than full crimp?
Generally yes—full crimp hyperextends the distal joint and spikes A2 pulley load. Use half crimp on edges; reserve full crimp for rare must-do moves.
Related terms
Put Half-Crimp Grip Technique into practice
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