Fitness
Open-Hand Climbing Grip
Open-hand grip uses extended proximal joints on holds—lower pulley stress than crimps and the default for high-volume climbing and hang training.
Open-hand climbing grip keeps fingers extended at the proximal joint with the middle and distal joints flexed onto the hold—common on slopers, large edges, and many gym volumes. It loads finger flexors with less sharp force at the distal joint than full crimps, making it the default for high-volume climbing and hangboard basics.
Train open-hand hangs before chasing tiny crimp problems every session when pulleys are the limiter. Skin and tendons often tolerate more open-hand contacts weekly.
Common questions
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When should climbers avoid open hand?
Tiny two-finger pockets and some pinches need semi-crimp or crimp shapes. Use open hand where the hold allows—do not force it on micro-edges.
Related terms
Put Open-Hand Climbing Grip into practice
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